Northwestern Journey

Although it was a huge let down when explorer John Meares was unable to discover the Northwest Passage in 1788 (becoming frustrated he gave this area its namesake),there’s nothing disappointing about Cape Disappointment, even on a rainy Washington day.

Cape Disappointment State Park (locals call it Cape D) lies about 170 miles southwest of Seattle; roughly a three and a half hour drive. Be sure to acquire a ten dollar Discover Pass upon entrance into the park. This ensures that you can park anywhere and explore all 1,900 acres of the park if you so wish. 

Many visitors come to the park in winter as this is the best time to get caught up in a storm and marvel at the seas force. But there’s plenty to keep you here once the storm has subsided.

Interpretive Center

Located at the site where Lewis and Clark first encountered the Pacific Ocean in 1805, the Interpretive Center sits perched atop a cliff above the ocean and has one of the best Corps of Discovery (name of Lewis and Clarks expedition) museums. This Center also lends you some of the best panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. In December and March, hoards flock here to capture a glimpse of the gray whales making their way down to Mexico from Alaska.

Light houses

Cape Disappointment offers two of the most scenic lighthouses in Washington, Cape D Lighthouse and North Head Lighthouse. Both built in the mid to late 19th century, the former lighthouse still guides ships into the mouth of the Columbia River, while the later of the two is considered the best preserved lighthouse, including the keepers house, barn, chicken coop, and carriage house.

Accomodations

Ilwavo’s Inn at Harbor Village a 1928 Presbyterian Church was converted into a ten room Inn and runs about 115 dollars in the winter, breakfast is included. You can also rent cabins and yurts in the park for about 62 dollars in the winter. Surrounding these are six miles of hiking trails that wander into the wilderness nearby. For about $380 you can even have your own light house for a few nights. 

Dining

Pelicano Restaurant and Tuscany Cafe are both considered fine dining establishments and they overlook the Port of Ilwaco marina. Save some money and eat at OleBob’s Gallery Cafe where they serve fresh and delicious seafood. Afterwards, wander through the seafood market nearby on Howerton Way.

For more activities at Cape D see here.

Here’s another hobby to add to your list of things to keep you from losing your mind during the winter doldrums. It’s called squid jigging and its becoming a big to-do on piers all over the Pacific Northwest.

During these cold and rainy winter months, thousands of squid flock in schools underneath piers, attracted to the lights posted above. During the months of November through February, people gather late at night (a few hours before high tide) on these fishing piers and wait for the schools of squid to swarm. With a basic rod and reel, most anyone can try this cheap sport for themselves. Experienced anglers use a jig that resembles a small fish that moves as they flick their rods back and forth, tempting the squid to cling on.

The sport was introduced by Asian immigrants and refugees around thirty years ago. Typically, Vietnamese stuff the fresh squid with pork and Filipinos cook a mean adobo with their catch. Of course, many use their squid for calamari as well. Now, everyone has caught on to the trend and many have become die hard winter jiggers.

What you need to know about squid jigging

Pacific squid migrate through the Strait of Juan de Fuca and into the Puget Sound. The best place for fishing is on piers in Seattle’s Elliot Bay, Redondo Beach, Des Moines or along the Edmonds waterfront.

You need to purchase a shellfishing license ($9.35 per day) and Fish and Wildlife regulate squid jigging; allowing each person to catch a maximum of 10 pounds of squid.

Travel down to Seattle’s International District to Linc’s Tackle Shop and buy a few jigs. Owner Jerry Beppu says Linc’s been selling the items since 1981, before the popularity of squid jigging caught on.

Although there are a lot of anglers crowding the piers, there is no need to fear that you will miss out. There are plenty of squid for everyone. Just be sure to watch out for the ink as you reel them in.

If you’re in need of a “staycation” the Olympic Peninsula offers some of the best scenic panoramas and three spectacular lodges to rest your weary bones after a long day of adventures through rain forests and beach combing.

Sul Duc Hot Springs

Ok it stinks her a bit, but once you get past that you can truly appreciate the beauty of the landscape and the “revitalizing” properties offered by these mineral springs. There are four outdoor spring fed pools that range from mild to hot. Early inhabitants of this region touted the healthful effects of the springs and 100 year ago, the first health spa was built on the site. Today, people come from all over to become revitalized in these waters and afterwards, hike the network of trails that surround Sul Duc. At night you can rent a “rustic” cabin which lives up to its name. They usually have few amenities but if your wanting a bit of luxury, head over to the lodge for a fancy meal and cozy sit by their large fireplace. 

Kalaloch Lodge

My favorite beach in Washington is Ruby Beach. Its a great sample of the rough and dramatic Washington coast that cannot be found at the touristy sites like Ocean Shores. This beach is riddled treasures and is great for beach combers are those wanting to discover tide pools teeming with sea life. Afterwards, the Kalaloch Lodge is a beautiful place to rest for the night. Again, rent a cabin on the bluff overlooking the ocean and take a stroll on the windswept beach before dinner.

Lake Quinault Lodge

As a child, Lake Quinault was my family’s traditional camping spot. Every summer, multiple times, we would pack up the car with our tent and gear and go out and live in the rain forest surrounding this tranquil lake for a few days. Now unfortunately, this spot is no longer used by campers and only accessible for day use but across the lake one can stay (in a lot more comfort) at the Quinault Lodge. The lodge was built in the 1920s and is the typical rugged, cedar clad dwelling that evokes the rough and untamed days of old in which loggers used to live in these woods. After a good nights rest, be sure to leave ample time to hike the trails of the rain forest and see some of the old growth forests still alive today.

The weather has been quite sunny here in the Pacific Northwest for this time of year. Although it’s still brisk outside, a day trip may be a welcome getaway during the weekend. Here are a few ideas.

Bird Watching at Skagit Wildlife Area:

Winter is the perfect time to do some bird watching at Fir Island Farms Unit. Watch snow geese come and go on mud flats, bald eagles soaring through the skies, sandpipers tiptoeing their way around and sometimes swans are present as well. Don’t forget your binoculars. 

Darrington:

The small town of Darrington which lies just northeast of Everett offers great day hikes. There has been a project to restore old train rails into trail networks. So far only a few miles have been converted but it’s a cool idea. Check out Whitehorse Trail currently open. Also, travel around the Bornite Mine Historical Trail or Mount Higgins in search of fossils. During winter months the waterfalls near the Bornite Mine freeze over and make for a picturesque moment. There can be quite a bit of snow so be sure to bring snow shoes.

Cama Beach State Park:

Look for fresh Dungeness crab, but don’t want to pay the price? Come and put your own crab pots in the water for a few hours at Cama Beach and while you wait hike the network of trails throughout the park. You can even rent a boat from the Center for Wooden Boats.

Tenino:

Tenino is an old mining town south of Olympia. It’s best known for the weird and mysterious 6 foot mounds that protrude from the ground and resemble something more moonlike than earth. Also have a look around the Monarch Contemporary Art Center where enormous sculptures ranging from all kinds of odd shapes and sizes are housed.